![]() On the elevator, they make a point of indicating you should use the shortest dubro heavy duty horns, but if you do that the ball link assembly will interfere with the servo arm slot, so bump up to the next longest and things work fine.Ħ. Several questions came up in my mind as I built (assembled) the plane and the instructions were so limited as to leave me resorting to my best judgement.ĥ. The tail wheel was the most obvious change (the new system, which is the F3A Unlimited tailwheel hardware, is much better). The instructions were horrible and clearly based on a prototype where a lot of things have changed since. If I hadn't had the Q60 with the screw shaft that can be screwed in from the back of the motor, I'm not sure it would have been possible, but it's possible I just didn't think the geometry through completely and I could have done it differently.Ĥ. Getting the cowl over the motor with the locator hooks positioned at the bottom seemed unnecessarily hard, like the fuse was engineered with the cowl but the design forgot that there's going to be a motor shaft sticking out the front. Biggest concern there is that the gator mounting holes are very slightly less far apart than the stock holes for the adjustment plate, so I might wind up with a ply trippler to hold the gator adjusters.ģ. I would have preferred a fixed incidence or a proper incidence adjustment system like the gators. ![]() The incidence adjusters are a bit of a joke, fine adjustment is simply not possible with these. I used a small carbon tube to guide the lead through the wing and then pulled the tube out.Ģ. Not a big deal as it's a pretty straight shot through the ribs. Similarly, no pull strings were installed in the wing. Small thing that would have made a big difference. Retrofitting one is also hard because of the inaccessibility of the deep recesses (I have slim arms but still couldn't get as far into the back of the plane as I would have liked. rudder pull/pull cables weren't pre-run and it was non-trivial to get them running through the fuselage correctly, similarly the elevator servo leads, in a ship like this there really should be a tube to run the leads through to prevent them from rubbing on the rudder cables in certain flight attitudes. Overall, this thing goes together really well, there are just a few fit+finish areas when I've come to expect more from the ARFs I buy:ġ. I just finished my Vanquish build last night, so here's a little mini review of the build: and get used to a bigger plane so I'll be ready for the Osiris when it comes, then I'll figure out which one I like better and keep the other. The T Canalizer was custom made by a friend of mine and are not commercially available.Yeah, Andrew is in the final refinement stage Ben from 3DHS said the Byper and the 2M Osiris would be available in the spring, hoping that is, in fact, the case as I too want one of each :-) I bought the Vanquish to practice with a 2M plane through the winter, etc. In addition I have just added a T Canalizer, with this addition the rudder is now more effective making knife edge loops and rolling loops quite easy to perform. With these adjustments it practically became a new airplane, very much for the better I might add. 7 degree of positive incidence in the wing. ![]() Some adjustments I made were moving the C of G forward by moving the battery just about as far forward as it will go. I didn't expect that much from this airframe but after flying it for a while and making some adjustments to setup it is now flying very well. These items have turned out to be a good combination for this airplane. I have the older version of a Himax motor, 21x14 Falcon CF prop, Castle Creation ESC all powered with F3A Unlimited 5100ma 10s LiPo packs. A relatively inexpensive way to get started in this "new to me" electric pattern stuff was to get a Vanquish from Extreme Flight. Recently I have been getting my "feet wet" flying "Electric" Pattern.
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